Do we need to oil this again before we start using this ? 4. We commissioned a local Amish woodworker to build a picnic table. I have a pine table from Next which appears to have been stained with a furniture oil. What will happen if we did not use tung or any other oil on the pine hook shelves? The oil needs to be applied thinly anyway so using only a very small amount of oil on the brush will help to reduce build up in those detailed areas. Julie. It’s a fast acting stripper that makes the treatment bubble up for scrapping off with a Mako Filler Knife. Then two or even three coats of the Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver will help to prevent the decay and mould. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please let me know – Sam. Hi, I’m working on refinishing a mid century modern teak table. Boiled linseed oil, on the other hand, ‘only’ takes a day to dry. As a tropical Hard wood when Teak is new it often has a high content of its own natural oil in it and so it makes sense that applying and oil to it is the best option. It would be worth checking the depth of the veneer if you can, and then the choice is yours but always do a test area first. The exterior is oak, the drawers are ash with plywood inserts. But it only requires 2 coats and a maintenance coat every couple of years (sooner if you feel that it needs it.). If you would like to send any photos to wood@finishes.direct feel free. They were previously oiled but not maintained by the owners. So any standing water or excessive exposure to water can result in stains or marks. Generally these will only work for pale or white water stains but they are worth a go >>> Rub the area with an oily furniture polish, mayonnaise, or petroleum jelly, if this does not work try putting a little toothpaste on a wet cloth and rub the stain gently until the spot disappears. Danish Oil will still protect to a good level but you inevitably need more coats and may need to do maintenance more often, and generally speaking the more coats of the Danish that you apply the glossier it will become. Question: oil or wax polish? 2) Will Danish Oil be okay for the chairs? As long as you keep the wood well oiled it should not release any spores. I am not sure if they are Thanks. Use a colourless, odour-free, light mineral oil instead, a safe and popular by-product of petroleum. Is it for indoors or outdoors and what purpose will it be serving? I have had oak unfinished work tops made into a large vanity shelf/ unit for my bathroom on which a sink will sit on top. If a water-based varnish is applied on top of an oiled surface, it’s highly likely that it will not bond with the wood and will therefore peel off very quickly. The first thing for me to say is, are there any manufacturers instructions or stickers on the doors that tell you what you can not use? I carry pallets which are slid in as well wooden furniture. We would like to know what type of finish would best preserve the wood for long term outdoor use, while still being as natural and Nontoxic as possible. Is this the best option and will I need to strip back first.? What method – brush /cloth? They seem like plastic. There is a lot of figure in the grain (lacewood) as well as some lovely colour differentiation between the pinkish heart wood and the lighter, sap wood which makes up around 2/3 of the width. We have ordered an unfinished oak worktop. Being subjected to warmth and moisture your pieces of wood may just need slightly more regular maintenance than furniture and flooring. Test areas are very important, however, as the wood that you are applying to will have an impact on the overall colour that can be achieved. To remove the varnish from the chairs you could have a look at the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover, which is like a gel that you apply for around 5/10 mins and it bubbles up allowing you to scrap off the varnish.It is important to try a test area first to ensure firstly that it will work and also that it will not have any adverse effect on the wood underneath. Hello what a great site! It may be the Osmo Polyx Oil that your nephew was talking about. There is also a small test that you can do that may help to determine what finish is currently on the wood. Eventually we will need to re oil but wondered if we could just apply Outdoor Furniture Oil over it without prior sanding. If so, which? What I’ll do for you is take before and after photographs. Give the wood a good clean and maybe sand to remove any stains. Where, how much for small quantity, and how. 1. Digging around the interwebs I think I need to seal the wood, use an oil finish, then a urethane. The UV Protection Oil from Osmo is a great treatment for exterior woods if you wish to have a clear finish. I want to maintain a matte/natural appearance on the horizontal surfaces. And the wood’s natural tones can be highlighted when treatment is applied. I have two slices of willow, approx. The Polyx Oil Clear with slightly darken the wood and enhance the grain, wiping a damp cloth across the surface will give you an idea of how this will look. I’m really upset with myself. What is the best method of dealing with the cracks that have blackened? 2 thin coats is all that is required for application. And some more details of the actual varnish , was it water or solvent based? I am replacing the wood slats in an outdoor park bench. Thank you for getting in touch with your question. So another product for you to consider would be the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra which is also a clear oil but may be a little harder to work into the wood. Please let me know if you have any further questions. If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Once well prepared, a Hard Wax Oil can be applied and for Sapele I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is designed for use on hardwoods that are less willing to absorb oils and will give a subtle satin finish. I would recommend a test area first as this will ensure firstly that you like the finish that will be achieved and also that there are no issues with application of this particular product. Iron wood is a very hard wood and so a thin oil is the best option, with wood like this oil uptake will be low and test areas are recommended to ensure the oil does not dry on the surface. If yes, could you tell me how to do it. The good thing about oils is that they are easy to patch repair and will blend well for situations such as yours. What oil is best to protect it and also darken the colour too? As it is a tropical hardwood it is also possible that it will have a naturally high moisture content and a tight grain, these are factors that will need considering when choosing the right product. It is not as easy to repair an varnished surface as it is and oiled one, and it may not be completely invisible but have a read of this blog and you can decide from there. Thank you for getting in touch. Depending on the size of your table you may get away with 1 or 2 of the 125ml sample tins. If it is internal wood that you are treating then yes the Osmo Polyx Oil would be the better product to use. 09/11/2019 The test area will show if the two oils are compatible and also if the wood will absorb any more oil or if the wood is saturated. I would recommend Manns Premier UV Decking Oil as a good option if the wet test works. I made a tree swing seat 8.5” x 28” x 2” using Sapele. Varnish is a surface seal that gives a better level of protection and will last longer. I would like to retain the natural look of the wood without too much of a glossy finish, however want to know which product is best considering bathroom will have more exposure to steam although as a guest room this will not be excessive.